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.There are 14rooms for overnight guests and 19 long-term apartments, each room261Western Maryland Frostburgdecorated in Victorian style and uniquely different.Mrs.Failinger reallyoutdoes herself at Christmas, with several trees on every floor.Even ifyou don t stay here, they ll gladly let you walk up the grand carved oakstairway to a Victorian lobby, and go down in the basement to see theirmuseum.At one time the train tracks went under the town, and coalcars came right under the hotel to deliver the fuel.You can also see asmall jail used to house prisoners being transported over the Old TrailRoad (Route 40) in the early 1900s.There s also a replica of a coalmine, several rooms of antiques and memorabilia found during therenovation, and a former game cock fighting arena, which doubled asa speakeasy during Prohibition (11 W.Main Street, 301-689-6511,www.hotelgunter.com).DiningThe Au Petit Paris French Restaurant is one of finest restaurants inwestern Maryland, and has a great wine selection.The restaurant isdecorated to resemble a Parisian café; the entrance hallway was once acity street that passed through the building (Main Street, 301-689-8946, www.aupetitparis.com).The Acropolis serves authentic Greek fare with dishes from the child-hood memory of owner Bill Diamond, a native of Greece (47 E.MainStreet, 301-689-8277).Gandalf s Restaurant & Pub serves exotic, organic and vegetarianfare from Ethiopian to Thai, along with micro-brews.Open for dinnerMonday-Saturday (20-24 E.Main Street, 301-689-2010, www.gan-dalfs.org).Princess Restaurant has been open since 1939 and is now operatedby the family s third generation.The restaurant once served HarryTruman and his wife, Bess, in one of their casual diner booths, whichbears a small plaque commemorating the visit (12 W.Main Street,301-689-1680).Tombstone Café, in a gothic-style stone building that housed tomb-stone manufacturers for more than a century, unabashedly proclaims itserves food and drink to die for. Simple, yet eclectic gourmet foodand coffee, and brunch served daily.Depending on the season, sit in-side by the fire, or outside on the lawn (60 E.Main Street, 301-689-5254).For a quick bite, Kramer s Deli offers gourmet sandwiches (105 E.Main Street, 301-689-5353).262 LodgingLodgingFailingers Hotel Gunter is an 1896 hotel with 14 guestrooms, each decorated with a unique Victorian theme, and amuseum in the basement (11 W.Main Street, 301-689-6511, www.hotelgunter.com, $).The Savage River Lodge is in the heart of the vast 53,000-acre Sav-age River State Forest, just a few miles southwest of Frostburg.The800-acre resort has 18 luxury cabins and a gourmet country restau-rant.Some cabins can accommodate pets; there is a fee of $20 pernight, which includes a gourmet pet treat, a game of Frisbee and adoggy Happy Hour on Saturday at 4pm in the meadow.You can hike,fish or get a massage or hike, fish and then get a massage (1600 Mt.Aetna Road, 301-689-3200, www.savageriverlodge.com, $$$$).The Frostburg Inn is a motor lodge with 16 rooms.Pets canstay in the smoking rooms, with an additional fee of $5 pernight.There s The Outback Lounge for dining and cocktails(147 E.Main Street, 301-689-3831, www.frostburginn.com, $).Chain hotels in Frostburg include a Hampton Inn with an indoor pooland whirlpool ( 301-689-1998, $$), and a Day s Inn & Suites( 301-689-2050, $$), both near Frostburg State University.InformationHistoric Frostburg, a Maryland Main Street Community, 301-689-6900, can provide information about lodging and dining, as wellas history.Allegany County Convention & Visitors Bureau, 800-425-2067, www.mdmountainside.com.GrantsvilleAround TownWe were initially told not to expect much from Grantsville.We re gladwe ignored that advice.We found it a relaxing respite off Interstate 68,good for a stop-off or an overnight, mostly due to the existence of a263Western Maryland Grantsvilleprivate effort that dates back nearly a half-century.It s called the PennAlps Restaurant and Craft Shop and its adjacent Spruce ForestArtisan Village, which offers visitors a glimpse of folkways and hand-made crafts.If you spend the day browsing Spruce Forest s historic log cabins,where local artisans work in open-view, then spend the night at thenearby Elliott House, a delightful Victorian B&B, you re left feelingas if time has slipped back a century or two.The laid-back pace of the19th century soothes 21st-century nerves.The rhythm of the loom orpotter s wheel slows down your pace.The aromas of citrus, eucalyptusand coconut envelop your senses.It is a time to appreciate the meticu-lous handwork of how things were made before mass-production.The dozen historic log and frame structures have all been relocated tothis spot from within about a 20-mile radius.The late Alta Schrock, aMennonite and native of the Allegheny Mountains, moved them hereto create a market for local cottage industries and to preserve the hand-crafts, music, history and values of old.Bird carver Gary Yoder works in the oldest building, the MarkleyHouse, which was built in 1775 in Pennsylvania and moved to SpruceForest Village in 1985.After 30 years of carving, Gary has built up hisskill to the point where it s hard to tell his intricately carved woodenfeathers from the real thing.Nearly all his work is done for custom or-ders, fetching between $2,000 and $10,000 per bird.He doesn t sellanything here in his studio, but it s a great opportunity to see one of thecountry s master bird carvers at work.If it s summer, a weekend or a holiday, you ll likely see weaver AnnJones working at the loom in the Glotfelty House, which was con-structed in 1776 near Pocahontas, Pennsylvania The rest of the yearshe s a public school teacher
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